E-ISSN:2456-3110

Review Article

Cosmetic Toxicity

Journal of Ayurveda and Integrated Medical Sciences

2024 Volume 9 Number 9 SEPTEMBER
Publisherwww.maharshicharaka.in

A Review on Ayurvedic Cosmetology and Cosmetic Toxicity

Chaudhari H1*, Akshita2
DOI:10.21760/jaims.9.9.21

1* Hinal Chaudhari, Post Graduate Scholar, PG Department of Agada Tantra, Rajiv Gandhi Government Post Graduate Ayurvedic College and Hospital, Paprola, Himachal Pradesh, India.

2 Akshita, Post Graduate Scholar, PG Department of Agada Tantra, Rajiv Gandhi Government Post Graduate Ayurvedic College and Hospital, Paprola, Himachal Pradesh, India.

The skin is the fundamental component of one's exterior appearance. Both in the past and the present, external beauty has drawn a great deal of interest and desire. Ayurveda is highly sought after in the cosmetology profession because of its distinct outlook on beauty and its long-lasting, cost-effective, and efficacious beauty therapy. Person's overall health conditions determine their level of healthy skin, which necessitates a variety of skin care treatments throughout life. These treatments - Panchakarma, Varnya Mahakashay, Achara Rasayan, Rasayan therapy, Sadvritta, Dincharya, Rutucharya, and diet control - are advised by Acharyas and are detailed in the Samhita. Ayurveda's cosmetic approach in cosmetology is linked to mental and physical well-being. We purchase skin care products to take better care of our skin and to seem younger. However, due to the components in cosmetics, prolonged use of those items builds up within the body and can have negative effects like irritation, allergic hypersensitivity, and an increased risk of infection. It can also induce early skin aging by causing damage to skin tissues. Ayurvedic cosmetics, which is based on natural principles, meets modern standards. It is possible to successfully combine the concepts of Gara Visha and Dushi Visha with cosmetic toxicity. This article discusses the toxicity of beauty products and Ayurvedic notions related to cosmetology.

Keywords: Skin, Gara Visha, Dushi Visha, Beauty, Toxicity

Corresponding Author How to Cite this Article To Browse
Hinal Chaudhari, Post Graduate Scholar, PG Department of Agada Tantra, Rajiv Gandhi Government Post Graduate Ayurvedic College and Hospital, Paprola, Himachal Pradesh, India.
Email:
Chaudhari H, Akshita, A Review on Ayurvedic Cosmetology and Cosmetic Toxicity. J Ayu Int Med Sci. 2024;9(9):147-153.
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https://jaims.in/jaims/article/view/3625

Manuscript Received Review Round 1 Review Round 2 Review Round 3 Accepted
2024-08-08 2024-08-19 2024-08-29 2024-09-08 2024-09-21
Conflict of Interest Funding Ethical Approval Plagiarism X-checker Note
None Nil Yes 13.87

© 2024by Chaudhari H, Akshitaand Published by Maharshi Charaka Ayurveda Organization. This is an Open Access article licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ unported [CC BY 4.0].

Introduction

The word cosmetic comes from the Greek word "kosmetike," which meaning "technique of dress and ornament." Beauty is something that everyone needs, and ladies are not the only ones who crave it. Since beauty not only draws attention from others but also fosters a sense of psychological comfort and self-assurance.[1] The Drugs and Cosmetics Act, 1940 (DCA) defines a cosmetic as any item that is meant to be cleaned, beautified, augmented with attractiveness, sprayed, poured, sprayed, or introduced into the human body or any part of it. It also includes any item meant to be used as a component of a cosmetic.[2] Every person aspires to be beautiful in order to please the senses. Beauty not only makes people happy, but it also, in part, generates pride and confidence. Cosmetics like Tilak, Kajal, Alita, and Agaru (Aquilaria agalbeha) were used as body ornaments and to produce beauty spots on the cheeks and chin in the days when gods and their deities ruled. Ancient texts such as Kalidasa's Abhijnana Shakuntalam and Meghadootam, along with many mythological epics, have references to these topics. The secret to using Ayurvedic cosmetics is found in the surrounding natural environment. Indians are adept at creating one-of-a-kind skin care products by combining precious stones, metals, minerals, fruits, vegetables, spices, and herbs.

Our bodies and skin experience both instant and long-term renewal when these treatments are combined with Ayurvedic massages and cleansing techniques.[3] Everyone aspires to appear more stunning, intelligent, and powerful. Cosmetics are products that are applied externally to improve someone's appearance and self-esteem. Though the goal isn't always accomplished because it depends on the product quality chosen, which is determined by the skin type - oily, dry, normal, or combination. Poor quality goods, lack experience, or insufficient competence prevent someone from achieving their goal. Dermatologists classify cosmetics under the following categories:

1. Skin Care Cosmetics - Cleansing agent, moisturizer etc.
2. Hair Care Cosmetics - Shampoo, Hair Colour etc.
3. Face Care Cosmetics - Facial foundation, eye shadow, lipsticks etc.
4. Nail Care Cosmetics - Nail paint, Paint remover.

5. Fragrance Product - Deodorants, Perfumes etc.
6. UV light screening preparations.

Recent years have seen a rise in the demand for cosmetic items, which include lotions, shampoos, face powders, soaps, and creams. As a result, the cosmetic business has been producing large quantities of these goods without adhering to any set standards. Cosmetics may include harmful substances like lead, cadmium, and other substances that can cause cancer, birth defects, developmental disorders, and reproductive problems, among other illnesses.[4]

Aim

The Aim of the study is to understand the concepts of cosmetology in Ayurveda and the toxicity caused by the various cosmetics products.

Materials and Methods

Reviewed from various Ayurvedic literature, websites, and relevant journals.

Cosmetology and Ayurveda

Numerous descriptions in Ayurvedic teachings emphasize the importance of cosmetology. The emphasis has been placed on the "Physician," "Attendants," and "Patients'" attractive personalities and outward appearance. In Ayurveda, there are many terminologies that are employed, such as Sumukha, Sudarshana, Subhaga, etc.[5] and a relationship between them and the various Prakriti, Sara, Samhanana, Pramana, etc. types has been established. In addition, the representations of Ritucharya and Dinacharya obviously refer to the period's artistic sensibilities.

An important factor that is taken into account for enhancing beauty is the explanation of meal plans and Pathya-Apathya. The most trustworthy indicators of the significance of cosmetology during that period are the distinctive Ayurvedic ideas, including Vyayama, Abhyanga (massage), various types of Snana, etc. Moreover, the concept of Rasayana therapy strongly suggests the importance of Yuvavastha, or the desire to look more appealing. Ayurveda places equal priority on health and beauty, despite the fact that beauty is praised regardless of age or gender in this philosophy. The only things that make someone beautiful are having a sound body and mind.[6]


As to Ayurveda, Bhrajaka Pitta is situated in the skin and contributes to the color and sheen known as Bhrajaka. According to Acharya Charaka, Pitta is responsible for both regular and aberrant skin colors. Skin pigmentation varies because Bhrajaka Pitta is found in the skin. In Ayurveda, the concept of beauty has a long history.

Ayurveda offers a range of skin care therapies that are appropriate for all stages of life and holds that having excellent skin is a direct result of overall health. The ancient science of indigenous medicine is known as Ayurveda. Ayurveda is in high demand in the field of cosmetology because of its original notion of beauty and its capacity to deliver long-lasting, cost-effective, and side-effect-free beauty therapy.

It is not just a medical discipline; it is an art of living in human beings.[7] According to Acharya Sushruta, an individual who possesses "Swastha Purusha" is one who has achieved harmony between the Doshas and the Agni, as well as specific and balanced functioning of the Dhatu and Malas. These indicate physical health, with a pleasant state of mind, soul, and senses serving as the mental aspect that constitutes health.[8]

Both conditions result in a sound personality, which is the foundation of beauty. Three major categories can be used to classify the descriptions of healthy personalities and cosmetics found in Ayurvedic writings:

Elements that determine beauty:

Prakriti, Sara, and Samhanana are often regarded as qualities that define beauty. Twak, broadly speaking, Varna, Prabha, and Chhaya. The organic beauty is determined by the Pramana of different Angavayavas. Texts describing Dirghayu Lakshanas supply the aesthetic sensibility and essential elements of uniqueness and beauty.

Elements that lead to beauty:

Dosha and Dhatu contribute to the preservation of beauty when they function normally. Through digestion and metabolism, Agni in an equilibrium condition gives rise to Bala, Varna, Ojas, Dhi, Dhriti, Smriti, and other things. Similarly, Matrijadi Shad Bhavas and Panchamahabhautic combinations contribute to inherent beauty. A person's beauty is greatly influenced by their age, sex, race, religion, and anthropology.

Elements that augment beauty:

The herbal Alternative methods include internal treatments like Mahakashaya, surgery like Vaikritapaham and Plastic Surgery, diets like Matravat and Hitatam, Sadapathya Dravyas, and medicines like Rasayana, Ghrita, and Taila.[6]

The Ayurvedic cosmetics may group under[9]

1. Cosmetics to improve the skin's appearance on the face
2. Cosmetics for maintaining and growing hair
3. Cosmetics for skin care, particularly for teenagers
4. Shampoos, soaps, powders, fragrances, etc
5. Other products

Table 1: List of medicinal plants listed in Ayurveda for proven cosmeceutical.

Medicinal Plants used as Skin Tonics, Anti-Aging & Moisturizers.
Aloe veraMoisturizer, Sunscreen & Emollient
Curcuma longa Antiseptic, Antibacterial, Improves complexion
Glycyrrhiza glabraSkin whitening
Ocimum sanctum Anti-aging, Antibacterial & Antiseptic
Triticum sativum Antioxidant, Skin nourisher, anti-wrinkle
Rosa damascena Toning & Cooling
Rosmarinus officinalis Skin rejuvenator & Cleansing
Rubia cordifolia Wound healing & Anti-aging
Daucus carota Natural toner and skin rejuvenator
Sun Tan
Cyperus rotundus Sun tanning
Moringa oliefera Sun tanning
Astringent
Mesua ferrea Strong Astringent
Pistacia Integerrim Astringent, Rubefacient, Anti-bacterial
Terminalia chebula Astringent, Anti-bacterial, Antifungal & Antisep
Ayurvedic Ingredients for Dental Care Product Uses
Azadirachta indica Toothache, Anti-bacterial, Dental carries
Acacia arabica Bleeding gums, Syphilitic infections & Swelling
Barleria prionitis Gum bleeding, toothache, and teeth strengthening
Mimosops elengi Astringent, keep gums healthy
Salvadora persica Potent Antimicrobial
Syzygium aromaticum Local anesthetic, relieves toothache
Symplocos racemosus Strengthen gums and teeth
Dermatological Applications
Allium sativum Antifungal, Antiseptic, Tonic
Azadirachta indica Potent Antibacterial
Celastrus paniculata Wounds healing, Eczema
Nigella sativa Antibacterial, Leucoderma
Pongamia glabra Herpes, Scabies, Leucoderma
Psoralea corylifolia Leucoderma, Leprosy,Psoriasis & Inflammation
Ingredients for Hair Care Product Uses
Acacia concinna Natural Detergent & Anti-dandruff
Azadirachta indica Reduces hair loss, Anti-dandruff
Bacopa monnieri Hair tonic, Promotes hair growth
Eclipta alba minimizes alopecia, or premature graying of the hair
Emblica officinalis Anti-dandruff, protecting & minimizing hair loss, toner
Hibiscus rosa sinensis Natural hair dye, anti-dandruff, and hair loss prevention
Hedychium spicatum Promotes hair growth
Lawsonia alba Natural Hair dye, Anti-dandruff, Conditioner
Sapindus trifoliatus Natural detergent & Cleanser
Sesamum indicum Blackens the hair, Promotes hair growth
Rosmarinus officinalis Softens, nourishes, and rebuilds the hair shafts
Triticum sativum Provides nourishment, lubrication & luster
Terminalia belerica Prevents graying of hair
Aloe Vera Cleanser & Revitalizer
Cedrus deodara Anti-dandruff

Cosmetic Toxicity

Cosmetics are any materials intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, sprayed, injected, or otherwise applied to the human body or any part of it in order to enhance attractiveness, clean, beautify, or alter appearance. Cosmetics come in a variety of forms that can be used for fragrance or perfumes, skin care, hair care, and makeup. Creams, lotions, cleansers, moisturizers, toners, and sunscreens are examples of skin care cosmetics. Shampoos, conditioners, hair gels, and hair sprays are examples of hair care cosmetics.

Concealer, foundations, primers, eyeliners, lip sticks, lip liner, and other cosmetics are examples of makeup. Our biggest organ, the skin absorbs 60% of the things applied to it, which causes chaos in the body's systems. These hazardous cosmetics loaded with chemicals work similarly to Gara Yogas, which many people inadvertently use these days. They cause both systemic and local illnesses when absorbed transdermally.[11]

We shall have a brief idea about the toxic effects of toxic principles present in Cosmetics from the following:

Table 2: Chronic toxicity of cosmetics[10]

Cosmetic nameEffect to the bodyName of toxic chemicals
Skin Care Cosmetics - Cleansing agent, Moisturizing agent.High doses of these compounds cause liver tumors and precancerous alterations in the thyroid and skin. They can cause mild to moderate irritation of the skin and eyes.Diethanolamine, or DEA, and its derivatives are used as a pH adjuster and to give creamy cosmetics. Monoethanolamide (MEA) and triethanolamine (TEA)
Hair Care Cosmetics-Shampoo, Hair Colouring agent etc.The DEA's cocamide and lauramide cause allergic responses.
Cell DNA can be changed by p-phenylenediamine and the byproducts of its interactions with hydrogen. Skin tumors and neurological damage can be brought on by coal tar.
Shampoo contains DEA ingredients cocamide and laurimide.
P-phenylenediamine is present in many permanent hair color formulas. Coal tar, also known as oxidative dyes, is a known skin irritant.
Face Care Cosmetics-Facial foundation, Powder, eye shadow, lipsticks etcAim for several physiological systems, such as the cardiovascular, gastrointestinal, neurological, hematologic, and renal systems.Lead (Pb)
Nail Care Cosmetics- Nail paint, Paint removerAcetone - a nail polish remover -causes headaches, vertigo, irritated eyes, skin irritations, and sore throats.
Acetonitrile: Symptoms include nausea, vomiting, irritated nose and throat, weakness, and tiredness.
Dibutyl Phthalate (DBP): Eye, skin, nose, mouth, throat irritation, nausea, and fainting at large doses.
Isopropyl acetate: drowsiness, eye, nose, and throat irritation.
Toluene: inflamed eyes, nose, throat, and lungs; headache, vertigo, numbness. During pregnancy, harm to the unborn child and damage to the liver and kidneys
Formaldehyde and Formaldehyde-releasing preservatives (FRPs), such as glyoxal, sodium hydroxyl methyl glycinate, polyoxymethylene urea, diazolidinyl urea, and quaternium-15.
Fragrance Product-Deodorants, Perfumes etcCertain irritants, particularly in children, can trigger allergies, excruciating headaches, and asthma.
Phthalates and coumarin are suspected of disrupting hormones, whereas phenol and coumarin are suspected of being carcinogens. Airborne contact dermatitis can be brought on by perfume spray.
Phthalates, Phethleugenol, and Coumarin
UV light screening preparationsSunscreen ingredients may result in allergic, phototoxic, irritated, or photoallergic reactions. PABA, cinnamates, and debenzoylmethanes can all lead to photo-allergic dermatitis.
Ochronosis and mutagenicity are two side effects of hydroquinone. One side effect of HQ is onchrosis, which is characterized by a gradual darkening of the skin..
DEA (diethanolamine) and its constituents, including benzophenones, debenzoylmethanes, cinnamates, and para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA).
-Heavy metals such as mercury that is inorganic -HQ (hydroquinone)

Ayurvedic Concept of Cosmetic Toxicity

Gara Visha, commonly referred to as concocted poisons, are made by mixing non-poisonous substances that could turn toxic. An additional way to characterize Gara Visha is as artificial poisons. Poisons have a special quality in that they do not metabolize naturally since Apaaki is a Guna of Visha. When non-toxic materials combine, they can also develop this property and act as toxins due to a malfunctioning Bio-transformation that can produce a host of pathological reactions that are not compatible with tissue metabolism. Numerous poisoning manifestation, or Gara Visha Adhisthanas, are bodily mirror images of these diseases.

Since these Adhisthanas might appear as acute or immediate symptoms, or as gradual builds over time, they can function as cumulative poisons or Dushi Visha. Sushruta Acharya addresses the possibility of consuming poison from substances like cosmetics that are frequently used for body, skin, and hair massages in Kalpa Sthana.[11] Ayurveda says there is a connection between cumulative poisoning and Dushi Visha. The effects of Dushi Visha do not strike suddenly; rather, they come on gradually. Because these toxins accumulate in the body over time and generate harmful effects over a set period of time, they function as cumulative poisons.


Dushi Visha affects the skin, gastrointestinal tract, nervous system, and other systems of the body, exhibiting a wide spectrum of toxic symptoms and disorders. When poison accumulates over time, cosmetics are permissible. Long-term cosmetic use can have harmful toxic side effects in addition to a host of systemic issues. By using Shodhana and Shamana Chikitsa in addition to the specific Ayurvedic treatment for Dushi Visha, these ailments can be cured.[12]

Discussion and Conclusion

Repeated exposure to such chemicals over long periods of time may cause build-up in the body, which the body can finally eliminate and cause symptoms of poisoning. The idea of cosmetic toxicity can be successfully combined with the Ayurvedic notions of Gara Visha and Dushi Visha.
The multibillion-dollar global cosmetics industry is profiting billions at the price of the health of its consumers, who are unaware of the risks these products represent to their well-being. Although 90% of the ingredients used in cosmetics are unsafe for ingestion by humans, governments are not doing enough to halt this dangerous trend. Therefore, consumers should be made aware of these facts and replace these harmful cosmetics with natural, organic, and herbal substitutes. One of Ayurveda's own purposes, then, is to maintain beauty.

References

1. Aditi Gandhi et.al Cosmetology in Ayurveda, A Journal of Ayurvedic Science Yoga and Naturapathy Volume 9, Issue 2, 2022 page no. 7-17.
2. MoHFW, GOI, The Drugs and Cosmetics Act, 1940. Chapter 1, p.7p
3. Panda AK Cosmetology in Ayurveda Literature, Ayursurabhi, 2005; 2-14.
4. Meena Kumari Mahto et. al Role of Ayurvedic Management in Chemical Toxicity of Cosmetics: A Review, International Journal of Research in Ayurveda and Pharmacy, Page No. 9-13.
5. Agnivesha, “Charaka Samhita”, revised by Charaka and Dridhabala with “Ayurveda Deepika” commentary, by Chakrapanidata, edited by Vd. Yadavaji Trikamji Acharya, Chaukhambha Surabharati Publications, Varanasi- 221001, (India), reprint 2002, Vimana Sthana8/96, pg. no. 277.
6. Samichha Neupane et. al Cosmetology- An Approach in Ayurveda, WJPR, Volume 9, Issue 3, 639-647.

7. Monali C. Chouragade et. al Scope of Research in Cosmetology in Ayurveda: A Breif Review, WJPR, Volume 11, Issue 2, 2135-2146.
8. Sushruta Samhita of Maharishi Sushruta, edited with Ayurveda Tattva Sandipika by Kaviraja Ambikadutta Shastri, Reprint edition 2008, Chaukhambha Sanskrit Sansthan, Varanasi 221001, Sutra Sthana 15/48, pg. no. 64.
9. Rameshwar Lal et. al “Concept of Beauty and Cosmetology in Ayurveda- A Review, WJPR, Volume 9, Issue 2, 379-384.
10. Scientific Committee on Cosmetic Products and Non-food Products. Opinion concerning a clarification on the formaldehyde and para-formaldehyde entry in Directive 76/768/EEC on cosmetic products. Opinion: European Commission. 2002. Available Online: http://ec.europa.eu/food/fs/sccp/out187_en.pdf, Accessed Online October 16, 2009.
11. Rukma et al. Review of Gara Visha Adhisthan w.s.r. to Cosmetic Toxicity, WJPPS, Volume 12, Issue 2, 647-654.
12. Kundan et al. Current Scenario of Cosmetic Toxicity and its Ayurvedic Perspective- A Critical Review, WJPR, Volume 7, Issue 16, 244-261.